While Staying True to the Original DNA of the Brand, the Fall Collections at Paul Stuart have been updated for the Contemporary Man
Contemporary men’s style is back! And in my opinion, I’d say it’s a good indicator of things to come. Today, a growing number of American men strongly focus on a classic style- all generations included, and rightly so. But what I find surprising is that the trend toward contemporary style is being spearheaded by the younger generations who are inspired by a classic style from more than half a century ago.
Interestingly enough, retailers are noticing more and more that store patrons are interested in apparel made with fine craftsmanship and good values.
The way I see it, the great return to classic menswear reflects what the younger generation lacks; interpersonal skills and style heritage. Remember, the age I am referring to are the young men who have spent a tremendous amount of time behind a screen monitor. Therefore, these young men long to understand the rules of fine dressing. And they should enjoy it.
Upon viewing the menswear runway shows at NYFW, I couldn’t help but think how out of touch the menswear designers are with American men. It seems to be getting worse season by season. I can’t imagine who in their right mind would purchase these unwearable items. Walking down a city street in NY, I see men dressing like men. Undoubtedly, many need style advice, but they dress and act like men. Men’s fashion shows have had a circus-like effect on me for years—for example, men in dresses, men with makeup, and men in heels. Yeah, I get it, we are supposed to be a generation that has awakened.
Yet, still, the fact remains that American men want advice and guidance from industry professionals to set them on the right track for dressing for success and looking well-put together during leisure time.
Thankfully, the new classic market segmentation seemingly pushes the industry to change its outrageous style standards. And this fall-winter season, Paul Stuart has its finger on the pulse. Headquartered in New York City, Paul Stuart, Inc. was founded by Ralph Ostrove and named for his son Paul Stuart Ostrove, has remained in its original location since opening in 1938. The company designs exclusive collections of men’s and women’s tailored clothing, sportswear, and accessories. Additional stores are located in Southampton, NY, Chicago, and Washington, D.C. \This season, at Paul Stuart, bold color combinations and patterns define the new collection from Creative Director Ralph Auriemma.
Inspired by the colors of the Scottish Highlands, the fall collection features the 3-piece suits in Shetland lambswool in light blue herringbone, moss brown, and a sage green Donegal tweed. And upon observing coordinating bow ties and brushed flannel sport shirts, I could not help but notice the detailing in the Fair Isle Shetland sweaters paired with chevron tweed pants. Crew neck sweaters in Shetland wool tweed, Fair Isle wool crew-neck sweaters in green, and reverse seam tweed cardigan sweaters provide contrast.
Accessories this season include tweed caps and cashmere knit beanie caps. The Hastings Chelsea boot provides the natural finishing touch. Auriemma says, “When designing this collection, I intended to honor the weave of the cloth, the texture of the yarns, and the colors of the Scottish Highlands.”
The Paul Stuart sportswear collection highlights fur, leather, and fine cashmere, including suede vests with sheared beaver trims, mink brown bomber jackets with sheared beaver, and a soft cashmere sweater with a sheared beaver lining.
The Highlander jacket returns in olive and brown alpaca and wool with suede trim and leather-covered buttons. The cognac suede vest with box pleat pockets is paired with tweed pants in grey and brown. Perfect for relaxing in are the horizontal corduroy pants exclusive to Paul Stuart that is pre-washed for softness. The new Gideon monk strap loafer from the softest Italian leather completes this group perfectly. They fit like a glove the moment you put them on.
Trevor Shimpfky, CEO and President, says, “This season, our Creative Director, Ralph Auriemma, has outdone himself. He has filled our stores with exclusive designs in the finest tailored clothing and luxurious sportswear collections that Paul Stuart has ever presented.”
The way I see it, this is the rebirth of American sartorial. The collection focuses on innovative constructions to fit a contemporary man’s needs, such as water-repellency and tech-induced fabrics, all featuring contemporary silhouettes paired with wool and cashmere sweater jogger pants and sneakers.
Words by Joseph DeAcetis