When we plan family getaways, we aim for something that blends luxury with unforgettable experiences. Our recent trip to Four Seasons Resort Hualalai on the Big Island of Hawai‘i checked all those boxes, and then some. Set against the backdrop of jet-black lava rock and the crystal waters of the Kona-Kohala coast, this property is pure magic. Lydia, and our three boys spent nearly a week here, and by day two, we were already talking about when we’d come back.
Let’s start with the property itself. Hualalai is legendary for a reason. It was the first and remains the flagship Hawaiian property for Four Seasons, with a history dating back to 1996. The resort was built to blend seamlessly into the rugged natural landscape, and it does just that. No towering buildings here, just understated elegance that wraps around lush landscaping, winding walkways, and pristine beaches.
The rooms? Okay, I’ll be honest, these aren’t the expansive, ultra-modern suites you might find in a newly built city hotel. They’re on the smaller side, which is why we opted for two connecting rooms to make things work for our family of five. That said, what they may lack in size, they make up for in character and location. Each room opens up to sweeping ocean views that never get old, and the outdoor showers and deep soaking tubs brought a serious wow factor.
But what truly sets Hualalai apart are the experiences. Let’s talk pools. There’s a reason this resort has a reputation among families, and it’s not just because of the location. Each pool feels like its own little world. From the quiet, adults-only Palm Grove (where Lydia and I snuck off to with books and mai tais), to the King’s Pond, a swimmable aquarium carved out of lava rock and filled with thousands of tropical fish. It’s a water wonderland. The kids were completely captivated. And when they weren’t snorkeling in the pond, they were devouring fish tacos poolside.
Dining at Hualalai was truly something special. At Miller & Lux Hualalai, a new addition by San Francisco’s celebrated Chef Tyler Florence, we experienced some of the most refined, and fun, dining we’ve ever had as a family. We had a Caesar salad prepared right at our table, made with hand-harvested lettuce and a perfectly balanced dressing. Simple, elegant, and unforgettable.
The tableside Dover Sole is a must-order, as is the grilled lobster. Both executed with precision and a touch of drama. Our boys were floored by the mountain of truffle shoelace fries (yes, they’re as over-the-top and delicious as they sound). But the true showstopper came at the end: a flaming tableside Bananas Foster that lit up more than just the skillet. It was the perfect finale, warm, indulgent, and pure joy in dessert form.
For a dining experience that truly channels the spirit of Hawai‘i, ‘ULU Ocean Grill is in a league of its own. Reimagined in late 2024 and opened to the public in early 2025, the restaurant now boasts a refreshed design and a menu that feels both rooted and refined. Nearly 75% of the ingredients come from right here on the Big Island, sourced from more than 160 local farms, giving each dish a sense of place that’s as genuine as it is delicious. The setting is cinematic. Tables just steps from the ocean, a golden sunset washing over the horizon, and waves providing the perfect ambient soundtrack. Standouts from our dinner included the Smoked Pork Belly Bao; tender, flavorful, with a Japanese whisky-shoyu glaze that struck just the right note, and the decadent Crab Noodles with sweet ebi butter and mochi noodles that somehow tasted both indulgent and light. Their signature dish, Ahi Tuna “Wellington” for two, wrapped in luau leaf with a foie gras bordelaise, was theatrical in all the best ways.
Upstairs, NOIO is the resort’s sleek new sushi concept, and one of the most memorable meals of our stay. The open-air design welcomes in the island breeze, and the view at sunset? Absolutely breathtaking. The signature Whole Fish Two Ways is a standout. Seared sashimi with jalapeño ponzu, ikura, and white seaweed, followed by a grilled filet topped with curry lomi lomi, shaved bottarga, and ginger flowers. It’s a dish that’s both inventive and deeply rooted in Hawaiian flavor. The bar here deserves its own applause, easily home to our favorite cocktails of the trip.
We balanced all that eating with some incredible activities. Hualalai has one of the best fitness centers I’ve ever seen at a resort, hands down. It’s won numerous awards, and it’s easy to see why. Top-tier equipment, tons of space, and ocean views while you work up a sweat. Lydia and I even got in a couple of morning workouts before the boys woke up, which somehow felt like a vacation within the vacation.
The spa deserves its own mention. Peaceful, open-air treatment rooms, incredible therapists, and Hawaiian-inspired treatments made it the perfect midday escape. Lydia said her massage was the best she’s had in years. I didn’t disagree.
One of the biggest highlights, though, came courtesy of the resort’s Alaka’i Nui Private Charter. We booked a day on their adventure boat, and what followed was nothing short of jaw-dropping. About halfway through the journey, we found ourselves surrounded by what must have been a thousand spinner dolphins. They were jumping, spinning, racing alongside us, it was pure magic. I looked around at my boys, wide-eyed and grinning from ear to ear, and thought: This is what we came for.
Back on land, we leaned into some of the resort’s other gems. The tennis facilities are top-tier. Beautiful courts, a well-appointed club, and a staff of pros who are as welcoming as they are skilled. Lydia and our oldest son, Stirling, joined a clinic and came back both exhilarated and exhausted. Meanwhile, our younger boys made the outdoor basketball court their domain. They’re a little too old for the kids’ club these days, so this was their sanctuary. They played pickup games with other guests and even shot hoops with a former NFL player who turned out to be a pretty great three-point shooter.
And every morning began the same way: with the legendary breakfast buffet overlooking the ocean. There’s something about watching waves roll in while you sip Kona coffee and load up your plate with fresh papaya, malasadas, and custom omelets that just starts your day right. A special shoutout to the omelet chef, her smile and skill set the tone for our entire morning, every morning.
One last note, the Hualalai Trading Co., the resort’s little on-property market, became a daily stop. It’s where the kids grabbed smoothies and snacks, and where we found some great coffee, local souvenirs, and even a few books. It gave the resort a village feel, which is rare for a luxury property.
In the end, what makes Four Seasons Resort Hualalai exceptional isn’t just the setting or the service, it’s the feeling that every moment here is intentional, meaningful, and beautifully Hawaiian. Whether it was diving into pools, marveling at dolphins, bonding over tennis, or sharing a plate of fries with truffle oil and laughter, every experience felt tailored to us. This was more than a vacation, it was a reminder that travel, when done right, brings families closer, slows down time, and turns ordinary moments into lasting memories.
By Doug McLaughlin
